Rhinebeck Bakeries: A Walking Tour
By Cait Johnson

When the weather turns blustery, my thoughts often turn to the comforting warmth of good things from the oven: loaves of hearty wholemeal bread to eat with cheese and a crisp apple as we watch the leaves fall, cinnamon buns with their homey fragrance, and cakes that leave the taste of dark chocolate lingering on the tongue suddenly sound like just the things to drive away the chill. Our corner of the Hudson Valley abounds with artisanal baked goods, but these are three of my favorite purveyors, all within easy strolling distance of the stoplight at the center of Rhinebeck.

Pandemain
18 Garden Street, Rhinebeck

Pandemain is the most recent addition to a lineup of fine patisseries in this area, and owners Kathlyn and Richard Acker, who is also the head baker, have proved to be not only experts at the oven, but wizards of transformation as well. What was once a dowdy pizza place has become a captivating oasis for the senses, with fresh flowers on tables covered with charming floral cloths, pretty antique plates, warm Tuscan colors and tiles on the walls--a visit to Pandemain simply lifts the spirits. But all of this is mere preamble to the fine quality of their baked goods.

The breads here are substantial, with a satisfying flavor and density. One of my favorite choices is the ficelle, a chewy cross between baguette and breadstick sprinkled with poppy or sesame seeds. And if you have a fondness for savory pastries, I can heartily recommend Pandemain's individual quiches, since I am now an ardent devotee. I get periodic cravings for the mushroom, scallion, and Jarlsburg, but other options--among them a delightful roasted tomato with cheddar--are equally tasty; with their tender crusts and creamy, flavorful custards, they make a perfect choice for lunch. Pandemain also offers sandwiches on their bewitching little wholegrain, sourdough, or Tuscan rolls, made to order with your choice of cheeses and other fillings, and soups that vary with the seasons.

Then there are the desserts: a simply euphoric Belgian chocolate torte, silky cupcakes that melt in your mouth, oversized cookies bursting with flavor, tempting biscotti with toffee and nuts, citrusy miniature bundt cakes--the list goes on, and they are constantly developing new delights.

Prices at Pandemain are very reasonable. The individual quiches and most of the loaves, which are moderately sized, cost a mere $3.50, while the petite sandwiches are $3.00. Most of their other products range from 75c to $1.50. There is often a little basket of yummy new things to sample sitting temptingly on the counter--ricotta muffins with toasted caraway one day, chocolate hazelnut biscotti, the next. You can sit at one of the pretty tables and sip a leisurely cup of tea or smooth, rich coffee, nibbling something sweet or savory to go with it, and not feel pressured or rushed. Pandemain is a treat in every sense. You can tell that Kathlyn and Richard just love what they do. So do we.

A note: Be sure to try a wicker, a mouth-watering little morsel of shortbread with plenty of cheddar and a hint of zippy spice. (I took a bag filled with them to a recent meeting where they garnered enthusiastic raves and prompted instant group conversion to the Way of the Wicker. Join us.)

Open seven days a week, 6:30 to 6:30. (845) 876-2400, fax 876-2454. Cakes also made to order.

Bread Alone
43-45 E. Market Street, Rhinebeck

Bread Alone is a serious large-scale bakery operation in Boiceville, with products distributed in most local grocery stores. The spin-off cafe in Rhinebeck features consistent quality baked goods made daily at the mother bakery, but they do make their own soups on-site. While the croissants are a little tough in comparison to the tender morsels from Calico (see below), the muffins, scones, and cookies are great, and their little chocolate tortes are luscious, while the jewel-like fruit tarts definitely bear looking into. And of course, the breads are justly famous.

Bread Alone serves breakfast (mostly bagels, toast, or yogurt, with oatmeal on the weekends) and lunch. They have an array of soups that changes daily, always with vegetarian options (I have a soft spot for the creamy corn chowder), served with a fresh-baked roll. Sandwiches include fillings like smoked turkey, red onion, and cranberry relish, or Virginia ham with brie, or fresh mozzarella, tomato and basil, all served on your choice of bread.

The beverages at Bread Alone are many and varied. Besides a selection of truly delicious offerings from Republic of Tea, they have a refrigerator case stocked with juices and imported sodas, as well as their celebrated coffee. (For the caffeine hounds among us, Bread Alone coffee is a must-have; packing more punch per sip than any other I've tried, it's guaranteed to help you reach your target heart rate in a New York minute. They also make latte, cappuccino, and espresso.)

While nothing in Rhinebeck is cheap, Bread Alone tends to be a little on the other side of pricey. Sandwiches range from around $4.95 to $6.95 (okay, they are substantial) and the three-pound loaves of bread, generous though they are, go for $6.00 to $6.50. But smaller loaves are only $3.00 to $4.50 and there is a tempting variety. My favorites are the rustic corn, mixed grain, raisin-walnut, and focaccia with herbs, onions, and olives, but there are many other choices, including spelt for the wheat-sensitive. And there are bargains to be had: a classic baguette will only run you $1.75 and the absolutely fabulous brownies are a steal at $1.50. Sometimes the atmosphere is a little frantic and disorganized and the wait on line can seem a trifle long (only a problem if you've had that second cup of coffee), but you're likely to meet interesting people there, and the posters are fun to look at.

Bread Alone in Rhinebeck is open 7:00 am to 6:00 pm every day. Phone (845) 876-3108.

Calico
9 Mill Street (Route 9), Rhinebeck

After a brief stint as a gourmet take-away, Calico has returned to its original incarnation as an intimate restaurant with a thriving patisserie attached. In the morning you can get a great cup of coffee with a fresh-from-the-oven scone, danish, muffin, or croissant that simply melts in your mouth (their pain au chocolat is the best I've ever had anywhere, period.) Later in the day, many of us stop by to bring home something special for dessert: diners there are used to the sight of us trying not to drool over the glass-fronted cabinet lined with delectable, miniature works of art. I warn you--the choice can be excruciatingly difficult to make.

For a long time now my credo has been, "If I'm going to ingest that many calories, it had better be chocolate," and, believe me, the chocolate desserts at Calico are extraordinary. (Take the Brownie Indulgence, for instance, a fudgey, gooey delight loaded with pecans and caramel, and coated with ganache; now that's a dessert.) But then, everything I've ever tasted from that tantalizing little display has been well worth the extra mile tacked on to my daily walk. In fact, I have made it my mission to eat my way through the entire list: picture-perfect little fruit tarts, moist cakes with layers of mocha cream or pureed black currant or hazelnuts, creme bruleé, domes of mousse enrobed in dark chocolate and crowned with a single perfect raspberry. It's a tough assignment, but I'm making progress.

Calico's prices are surprisingly reasonable: $4.00 for the single-serving masterpieces, large tarts from $14.00, and large cakes $18.00 and up. Everything is always handed to you beautifully boxed and tied with signature blue and violet ribbons, and the servers are unfailingly pleasant. They also cater events and make cakes to order. And you can get creative. A few years ago, a friend celebrated a milestone birthday with a Calico creation that put an expression of ecstasy on every face. Strawberries, whipped cream, and melt-in-your-mouth cake were covered in dark chocolate strikingly decorated with a specially-designed tree of life motif. Hats off to pastry chef and co-owner Leslie Heinsohn-Balassone.

Phone (845) 876-2749, or on the web at www.cal icorhinebeck.com. Open 8:00 am to 8:30 pm Wednesday and Thursday, 8:00 am to 9:00 pm Friday and Saturday, and 8:00 am to 4:00 pm on Sunday.

Sadly, these three establishments only scratch the surface of bakery options in this part of the Valley, so I guess I'll just have to loosen my belt (again) and keep on tasting. Look for the results of my continuing explorations in upcoming issues of AboutTown.