Hudson Rises, Again!
by Cynthia Owen Philip

Hudson is my kind of town. I love to swoop down Columbia Street by the hospital, cross south on 7th Street at the park, then turn right into the extended explosion of Warren Street. So long, so varied and so definitive, that great thoroughfare is always a surprise. Even before it became a parade of fine antiquaries, specialty shops, and charming restaurants, it possessed an arresting character. In the past, it has been a bit muted, of course, but Hudson is such an old town, and so many early buildings survive, that, even in its low periods, it had backbone.

Settled in the 1660s by New Netherlanders who called it Claverack Landing, it slowly grew from a fur trading post with a couple of storehouses and wharves to a prosperous village with a tannery, a grist mill, a church and school and a canoe ferry to the opposite shore. These Dutchmen were principally traders, and part of their trade was importing from Holland the household objects that would permit them to live as they had before they emigrated.

Immediately after the Revolutionary War a group of keen-eyed Nantucket whaling men, seeking a haven from marauding British fleets and drawn by the deep water of the Hudson and the settlement's two fine bays, bought the land where the main part of town now is. These Proprietors, as they called themselves, laid out a grid of 50 x 100 foot lots and distributed them among themselves with the proviso that, should an owner sell, he must offer it to the others "at first cost without interest."

The Proprietors immediately erected houses, some of which were partly prefabricated in Nantucket, as well as shipyards, sail lofts and rope works to serve their whaling and sealing operations. They added sperm oil and candle works, tanneries--I expect for the seal skins that were made into boots--another grist mill, three breweries, a market house, and a jail complete with whipping post and stocks. They changed the name of the settlement to Hudson. In 1785, it became the first city in the new United States to receive a charter.

Mainly Quakers accustomed to an orderly life, the Proprietors enacted a raft of quality of life laws. For instance, it was unlawful to let hogs or geese wander or horses be galloped through the streets. Shopkeepers were forbidden to throw glass or chop wood in the street. Boys could not swim near the ferry landing. In 1794, the Proprietors established the volunteer fire department that is still in existence today. Being a religiously tolerant, peaceable people, they mingled with the Dutch families, intermarrying and adopting many of their customs. Today there are scores of names in the local telephone book that begin with the Dutch Van; many trace their lineage back to the original New Netherlanders.

In 1790 Hudson was made a port of entry. The village on the opposite shore, now Athens but then called Loonenberg, was dubbed Algeria because, it was said, "pirates" anxious to elude customs duties hung out there. (The nickname was still in use well into the 20th century.) In 1805, the county seat was moved from Claverack, on the Post Road three miles inland, to Hudson. In 1807, Hudsonians were electrified when Robert Fulton's boat, simply called The Steamboat because there was no other in the world, passed the city on its maiden round trip between New York and Albany. Although the price for a passenger to Albany was two dollars and to New York City five dollars, riding the steamboats became the thing to do. The boats were quick, on time and increasingly luxurious. Over time, river freighting was also dominated by steam. By 1810, Hudson had grown to almost 5,000 inhabitants, including 54 slaves. It had two banks, four houses of worship, a Masonic lodge, an academy, and district schools. In terms of prosperity, this was the city's heyday, perhaps not duplicated until this very day.

The War of 1812 precipitated Hudson's decline. Embargos leading up to the renewed conflict with Britain as well as inroads made by enemy war ships and privateers dramatically shrank commerce. Successful whaling expeditions were hard to accomplish and less lucrative. Some also say the progeny of early settlers lacked their forebears' enterprise. Well, maybe.

There were, however, spurts of economic activity as the nineteenth century progressed. An 1871 gazetteer lists a burgeoning manufacturer of fire engines, hose carriages and tenders that employed 40 men at the high average wage of $2.85 a day and expected to hire 60 more. There were two pig iron manufacturers. One was located at South Bay, which it was busily filling in for expansion. It used two blast furnaces activated by a 400-horse power steam engine and already employed a hundred men at an average daily wage of $1.75. The other was located on Water Street and employed fifty men. There were machine works, a stove foundry, and a steam mill for grinding flour and plaster, the latter for iron manufacture and, perhaps, fertilizer. A lumber dealer that made housing components such as windows and sashes and also seasoned wood using a steam process was located in the center of town on Diamond (Columbia) Street. Two breweries flourished: Millard & Waterbury's at Second Street, and C. H. Evan's at the North Bay, with a malt house and storage on State Street. Many Italians and Eastern Europeans immigrated to Hudson to man these enterprises. The steady textile industry relied mainly on female labor. And there were, of course, the usual hefty number of taverns, grog shops and bordellos associated with port towns.

Hudson was a major stop on the Hudson River Railroad, a link to New York City and to the Far West. This was one of its attractions; it still is. The Chatham branch of the Boston and Albany was put in to carry coal to New England. Passengers, served by an uptown station, used that line as well. The station has closed down, but a freight train still runs on its tracks: on a recent visit I had to wait for a CSX train to rumble through Prospect Park before I could cross 7th Street. Railroads, however, cut into shipping. As a port Hudson would be forever in decline. But the remarkable number of Victorian and Queen Anne buildings, especially above Fourth Street, is a powerful reminder of the great railroading period of the late nineteenth century.

The Modern Era
Fast forward to my lifetime. When I first came to the area, Hudson was in the doldrums, having suffered mightily in the Depression and not gained much momentum during or after WWII. Still, it was the place farmers came to do their serious shopping. You could get just about anything. Moreover, Hudson's own population numbered 15,000. In addition to English and Dutch stock, there were Poles, Italians, Greeks, Ukrainians, blacks --many of whose families had resided there for generations, and Jews whom I remember not only as lawyers and shopkeepers, but as the energy behind most of the cultural events I attended. There was some industry and a significant sprinkling of piecework outfits, such as the Pocketbook Factory. But most of the big taxpayers and the new malls were in the town of Greenport that surrounds the city. As a result, despite the activity on Thursday paydays and on Saturdays, when those who were not behind their counters came out after work to meet friends as well as to shop, Warren Street was speckled with empty storefront after empty storefront.

Sometime in the late 1980s, fed-up New Yorkers woke up to the fact that Hudson might be a good place to do business. That's when the current renaissance began. It has come in three waves. The first wave was a handful of antique dealers, drawn by an array of cheap, but basically sound, real estate begging for renovation, as well as by the city's proximity to New York City and easy access by train and car. So many of these shops proved successful, they were soon followed by others.

In this second wave, newcomer businesses expanded to include restaurants, theaters and art galleries, of which Carrie Haddad's was one of the first. The renovation of the derelict Opera House as a community center gained momentum. Time and Space Limited converted a bakery building on Columbia Street into a performing arts center. It added to its repertoire films, open forums on local and national issues, socially conscious art exhibits and a series of programs for at-risk youth. Two mainstream films about upstate New York used the city as a set--Ironweed with Jack Nicholson, and Nobody's Fool with Paul Newman; a film called Ghost Dancers is being filmed there as I write. Real estate prices rose, but were still generally affordable. Restoration proceeded westward toward the river, taking in more difficult projects. Many were the fine federal structures built by the Nantucket Proprietors and their progeny. Because almost two centuries had gone by since lower Hudson was a fashionable part of town, many, though somewhat decayed, were in virtually pristine condition.

At the same time as new enterprises arrived, however, old businesses closed, some because of their owners' advanced age, some because the prices offered for buildings were irresistible, some because times had changed and they were no longer viable. Among the stores I especially liked that have vanished since I first knew Hudson are Newberry's, a huge five-n-dime; Ziesenitz, the perfect book store; Rowles the long time photographer - their vintage photographs are now in the custody of Historic Hudson; Pressman's Army Navy store that carried galoshes, baseballs, overalls, hunting shirts etc, etc.; and the pork, fish and meat shops. Gone too is the white-pillared movie house on upper Columbia Street where we used to see Saturday night westerns; it is now an antiquary.

Happily, Rogerson's Hardware, Steiner's sports goods, and Byron Parker Plumbing are still in business. The renovated St. Charles Hotel with its bar and restaurant presides over Prospect Park as it has for well over a hundred years. The diner on upper Warren is with us as well. I recently had a very good plain lunch there; cabbage soup was the highlight. The place was filled with regulars chatting with their friends, the waitresses and the Greek cook/patron peacefully reading from a stack of newspapers. The Columbia County Court House, built in 1909, continues to bestow dignity on its neighborhood, although when I went inside I was disappointed to find that the tattered black leather spectator seats, patina'd by eons of twitching backs, have been replaced by modern nondescripts. I also shuddered to hear that the Hudson Area Library might not be long with us. Built of white limestone blocks in 1818 as an almshouse, it was an insane asylum from 1831 to 1851, then a seminary for young ladies, then a private house, then an orphanage until 1957, and finally the library. True, its weakened condition is alarming, but someone, oh someone, please come to its rescue!

Room for Diversity?
Hudson is now in the third stage of its renaissance. It is providing for the needs and amenities of an increasingly affluent population--computers, fine wine, upscale home furnishings, rare books, and art supplies. Sam's, the one remaining supermarket, has shut down. But, mirabile dictu, Vasilow's--a confectionary store and soda fountain that provided me with sheer bliss in the past and closed when the very tall and very erect, thin Greek brothers who handmade the luscious ice cream and chocolates retired--has been resurrected by Jim Vasilow, their grandson and nephew. The business is not at 505 Warren Street which, sorrow upon sorrow, was torn down. It's on Columbia Street just before it joins Park Place. Vintage photographs of the brothers in sparkling white aprons hang over the counter, evoking a multitude of reminiscences. So do the chocolates made from the original Greek recipe book.

In another generational leap, a descendant of the C.H. Evans of brewery fame has bought the C.H. Evans fire company's building. Far too small for modern equipment, it was sold in anticipation of the consolidated firehouse on the outskirts of town being completed at the end of this year. Appropriately, a combination drinks and bookshop is planned. It will be interesting to see what befalls the other old firehouses on the market.

Property values have risen dramatically in this third stage, as the renovations have spread out into upper Columbia and State Street on the north and lower Union and Allen Streets to the south. Buying in now requires a major investment. Hopes are that this big money will be accompanied by an equal commitment to the community. The reality is that this great refurbishing of the city has not benefited all Hudson residents equally. The words currently used to cover the problems it has generated are "affordable housing." They stand for the plight of the city's low wage earners who are losing their housing as new owners take over the apartments over their shops: either moving into them themselves, or demanding luxury rents to cover the cost of renovation. Many of those affected are minorities: newcomers from Bangladesh and the West Indies, as well as the deep-rooted black families. Basically, they have nowhere else to go. Of Hudson's present population of 7500, Mayor Rick Scalera estimates that about 40 percent are minorities.

Right now Hudson is at a turning point. Even affluent old timers and newcomers are concerned lest the city become a monoculture. As one thoughtful commentator put it: "Diversity fosters creativity. Without it, a city becomes moribund." To stimulate broad-based community participation, Columbia County Futures has brought out a map that shows 44 major sites where development is now in the works, or at least being seriously talked about. Many will squeeze out more low and even moderate wage earners. The map is a wake up call for everyone to inform themselves and take action.

Exploring the City
For those of who don't know Hudson well, I say explore it. It is an exciting town. You can get a wonderful walking tour, among other useful material with detailed maps, at the Amtrak railroad station, the Columbia County Chamber of Commerce in the Trustco Bank at 507 Warren Street, or at the information kiosk in the park across the street from the St. Charles. After savoring the extraordinarily handsome and varied architecture along the main streets, those with a taste for historical venturing will be well rewarded by taking a look at the fringes.

I am especially fascinated by the old waterfront, the edges of filled-in South Bay and the motley settlements at North Bay. You can get to the former on Cross Street, which is south of and parallel to Allen Street off South Front Street. Having passed Stageworks/Hudson in what was originally a candle and more recently a flypaper factory (great plays coming up this fall), bear right on Tanners Lane. There, on the left, is probably the only remaining Dutch house in Hudson. It's all crumbly and boarded up, but it has a fine gambrel roof and it's easy to imagine a first settler standing in the doorway admiring the great ships bobbing at anchor. To get to the present waterfront you cross the railroad tracks on Ferry Street and mosey about the rusting 19th century industrial buildings, pondering what sort of development that vast area will face.

For North Bay, follow North Front Street to Dock Street, not failing to mount Promenade Hill at the foot of Warren Street for a panoramic view of the Hudson River, the original lifeblood of the city. In this hidden northwest part of town is a boat club, a series of quirky little fishing houses, many of which have become year round residences, and more decaying industrial buildings. By the time all this wandering is over, I can guarantee you will probably have a better idea of the past, present and future of the City of Hudson than many of its most enthusiastic inhabitants. Godspeed.

Please note:

1) If you don't have time for leisurely rambling, go to Mark McDonald's at 555 Warren Street, the old Town Fair building that is now specializes in vintage 20th century furnishings and books. A wonderful exhibition of photographs of the entire length of Warren Street, taken in 1993, fills the architecturally fascinating second floor.

2) Bustling as it is, Hudson is not a 24/7 city. For instance, many places take Wednesday off. Others, especially the antiquaries, can be visited only from Thursday through Sunday or Monday. If you have specific destinations, it's best to verify the times they'll be open.