Two New Eating Spots
by Jane Dodds
Arielle
51 East Market St., Rhinebeck, 876-5666
Open Tuesday Thursday 5 9:30pm; Friday Saturday 11am 10:30pm; Sunday 10am 8:30pm. Dinner entrées $18 26.
Beyond communicating Frenchness, I'm not sure what the owners of this new eatery had in mind in choosing its name, but while there I thought of the archangel of same name, the one promising healing and new beginnings—just like rehab does. That's because their liquor license hadn't been issued by opening . . . a commonplace enough occurrence; not so customary was the barring of customers from BYOB. Apparently the prohibition was put in place after a diner complained that some fellow diners, imbibing ones, perhaps a group of laughing friends, were breaking the law! So, spoiler alert: While sampling Arielle's fare, it was impossible not to be affected by some irritated musings about the killjoy who had sentenced my companion and me to drinking water.
That disclosed, French country-dressed Arielle is cozy and has good acoustics, though the soft Franco-Muzac can be, at times, a little heavy on the lute. As for the food, the bistro-size dinner menu holds some standards as well as surprises. The tasty appetizers include grilled sardines, octopus, and crispy sautéed artichokes deemed both "fantastic" and "divine" by said companion. "Trio" consists of egg-cup-size servings of cold soups—mint, carrot-ginger, and beet—the delicate flavors of which raise hope for a hot, winter counterpart. The entrées include that usual bone thrown to vegetarians: pasta with vegetables, as well as a Fromage Board and a humus-and-pita Mediterranean Plate. (So why not Méditerranée Plate then? I wondered crabbily.) Fish is well represented with Skate Grenoblaise, Branzini, and a workman-like Pan-Seared Salmon. The vegetable paired with the latter appears on the menu as Brussels Sprouts with Fennel and Grapefruit, with no mention of the bacon chunks cooked into it. No substitute was offered when this was pointed out by the non-red meat eater who had ordered it. Thus, close advance questioning of the pleasant wait staff is recommended for non-omnivores. Choices for those who want their red meat include Pork Milanese and Steak-and-(delectable!)Frites. The dessert menu has many appealing choices—Citrus Compote Minted Yogurt, Cardamom Crème Brulée, to name a few.
Red Devon
108 Hunns Lake Rd., Bangall, 868-3175
Open Thursday Sunday for breakfast and lunch 8am 3pm; dinner 6 9:30pm (last seating). Dinner entrées $21 32.
"Made it, Ma! Top of the world!" Those are among the most famous movie lines spoken by James Cagney (White Heat, 1949), who was once a Bangall resident, and whose personal bar remains in use as Red Devon's bar. They are also lines, at least in spirit, likely to issue from any diner there, because the food is simply that good.
All dishes are prepared to the extent possible using seasonal, local organic produce and
humanely-raised animals, which, combined with assured, inventive chefery, results in a diverse array of clear, full, and memorable flavors. Memorable too is the presentation. For example, a lunch there included an Endive Salad that was unexpectedly beautiful. And just as startling was its flavorfulness, brought out by a blue-cheese-and-buttermilk vinaigrette. The Roasted Red and Yellow Beets is also a looker, trimmed on top with a dollop of pan-fried fresh goat cheese that makes it taste like dessert.
As you would expect at an eatery named for a type of beef cow raised by the owners, both the lunch and dinner menus offer many red meat-based dishes, including the unusual. Giving pleasure to companions of mine were the Slow Smoked Pulled Pork and White Bread, and the Roast Red Devon Beef on Sour Dough. A word on the breads: a range of types are baked in-house each day, and, soft or crunchy crusted, they are luscious.
The dinner menu includes such offerings as Roasted Pasture-Raised Loin Of Lamb "Biyaldi," Roast Pork and Chicken Roulade, as well as Roasted Atlantic Flounder. A vegetarian might do well to choose the Wheatberry Risotto with saffron, spinach, squash blossoms, baby carrots and sautéed artichokes.
Lunch and breakfast can be eaten inside or on a porch, and dinner inside or on a terrace. At this writing, Red Devon awaits its liquor license and BYOB is permitted. Happily, unlike the fate of Cagney's character in White Heat, law enforcement did not show when my dining companions and I raised a toast.
