A Vast, Genetic Diversity
by Sheila Buff

Book review of The Heirloom Tomato: From Garden to Table: Recipes, Portraits, and History of the World's Most Beautiful Fruit by Amy Goldman; photographs by Victor Schrager. Bloomsbury, 272 pages, $35

The Heirloom Tomato, by Rhinebeck resident Amy Goldman, is a beautiful book—a nicely designed, large-format volume with spectacular photographs by Victor Schrager. Unlike many other beautiful large-format garden books with spectacular photographs, The Heirloom Tomato also has a serious, well-written, informative, and even witty text. Goldman gives a brief introduction to tomato history and cultivation, and then quickly gets down to the main purpose of the book: a careful discussion of 200 heirloom tomato varieties. One of the chief values of this handsome volume is to remind us of that tomatoes don't have to be red and round. These varieties, all at least 50 years old, come in a wonderful range of sizes, shapes, and colors—an indication of the vast genetic diversity stored in heirloom tomatoes.

The real value of Goldman's discussion comes in her honest evaluation of the tomato's flavor, texture, and best uses. If a variety is a wonderful balance of acid and sweetness that's ideal for fresh eating, she says so. And if a variety has only fair flavor and is best grown as a novelty, she says so as well. It's a refreshing change from the near-worshipful approach many writers take to heirloom vegetables. The brief histories of the varieties are supplemented by Goldman's informed and insightful comments. Fifty-five excellent tomato recipes round out the book; serious gardeners will appreciate the lengthy list of seed sources at the back.