Millerton Rediscovered
by Mary Leonard

Millerton, in the town of Northeast, is a key location for second homeowners and tourists because it is strategically situated in a corner of New York State. One might say that the draw is the upscale Connecticut villages that are home to many celebrities—the names of Meryl Streep and Jill Clayburgh were whispered in my interviews. But more than the celebrity factor is geography, according to Dick Hermans, owner of Oblong Books on Main Street: "Millerton is equidistant from Torrington, Poughkeepsie, and Great Barrington. It has always been a great location." Even Arthur Frommer's 2007 Budget Travel has called Millerton "A top ten coolest small town" in America. Julie Schroeder, the owner of Silamar Farms, at the intersection of Rts. 199 and 44/22, claimed that "this town was seedy and shabby 30 years ago," but that Carolyn and Bob Sadlon,the owners of the Millerton Moviehouse, proved to everyone that a turnaround was possible.

Julie and Harry have seen all aspects of Millerton, moving there 46 years ago to start their dairy farm, but giving that up for corn, pumpkins and seasonal vegetables, which is much less labor intensive. Schroeder said that the area was mostly dairy farms when they settled but that kind of farming is very time consuming and difficult. Land is now being used either for produce or upscale horse farms. Silamar Farms raises and sells it own vegetables, flowers and other area products. Schroeder was insistent about this, saying, "We only sell local, if not from our farm, from nearby farms, never from wholesalers." She did not seem to have any nostalgia for the past—the makeover that she has seen in Millerton has been wonderful. Silamar Farms. Routes 199 & 22. 518-789-3067.

Hard work, vision, perfect location, a few good people—was it one or all of these factors that turned Millerton around? Dick Hermans grew up in Pine Plains, but his father worked in Millerton selling insurance. Hermans remembers when the drinking age was 18 in New York State and 21 in Connecticut. "Lots of bars in Millerton, and it was rough. The young kids from the prep schools would cross the border to drink legally and it didn't give our town a good name." He also remembered a large department store across the street from his present site at 26 Main Street, which was in business until 1975. But many of the so-called seedy buildings are being restored to their late 19-century Victorian charm.

Wandering around the town, I was reminded of the small towns on Martha's Vineyard, of course without the lure of the sea. But whether we call what is happening in Millerton renovation, restoration, or shabby chic, Hermans is happy with his bookstore just the way it is. Fans were blowing on a hot July day—no air conditioning—but that didn't stop customers from browsing and buying. His crowded bookstore should remain the way it is because the selections are handpicked by Hermans who takes into account his own interests and his customers' personal tastes. Even my husband, an historian, was delighted with the selection in his field. "During the week, this place is crowded, but on weekends, even more so," Hermans said. While I visited, on a Friday in July, a story hour was going on for children in the upper chambers. Hermans said, "The Oblong caters to a college-educated crowd with disposable income," and claimed that Barnes and Noble, now in both Kingston and Poughkeepsie, did not cut into his business (whether here or at the Rhinebeck store), even with sales and discounts. After buying ten books at the Oblong, customers receive a 25-dollar gift certificate. In addition to books, Oblong offers a wide selection of CDs. Apparently Priscilla Herdman, Herman's wife, was smitten when she found that Hermans carried albums featuring her folksinging. "That's why she liked me," Hermans claims, and they married in 1982. Herdman has never been a partner in the two-branch business, however; that distinction belongs to Hermans's daughter. Oblong Books. 26 Main Street. (518) 789-3797. www.oblongbooks.com

Romance, charm, an old-fashioned town, businesses operated by locals—I was beginning to be lured, and wished my husband and I had chosen Millerton for a retirement destination. Jan Gilmor of Gilmor Glass says, "Where can you go and have everything! Your complete life can be here: groceries, convenience stores, restaurants, movies, a book and music store, take out, and even a loop bus to Poughkeepsie and back." Jan and John Gilmor do live in Millerton and have been running their glass factory and store on the corner of 22 and 44 for the last 12 years. Jan said they do not supply wholesalers but sell enough art glass to those second homeowners and tourists to make a go of it. Jan said that average people buy one piece at a time, or for weddings. "We sell many wedding gifts because our glass is unique and handmade." I was very tempted by the tumblers that looked like they were sprinkled with confetti. Who needs Crate and Barrel? John Gilmor is the glass blower, involved in the craftsmanship, while Jan does the designing and retailing. "Glass has a mind of its own," Jan emphasized as she led me into the workroom where the furnace runs at 2000 every day of the year. Artisans were busy at work in the 95° degree July heat. "A potter can't walk away from his work; here we can't walk away either, once we gather the glass, or start, we have to work to completion, which could be ten minutes or two hours," Jan claims. Jan and John are busy of course with their business but find the time to be involved in Townscape, a citizen-driven beautification agency. "Things can get done in Millerton," Jan said, "Lakeville and Salisbury are manicured and picture-perfect, but this community is more vibrant." Gilmor Glass. Two Main Street. 1-888-Blo-Glas. www.gilmorglass.com

Local and family involvement seem to be the name of success. I spoke to Sarah Stevens, the assistant manager of Harney and Sons, right across from Gilmor Glass. All of the Harneys are involved in the tea business! (Mike Harney's wife and the manager, Brigitte, was visiting family in France so I could not speak with her personally.) Sarah likes tea drinkers much more than coffee afficionados. "They are more mellow," she said. Certainly the atmosphere at Harney and Sons lends itself to mellow—French country charm, with happy colors and nooks and crannies filled with tins of teas. John Harney, the patriarch of the business, started blending teas in his basement in Salisbury 25 years ago, learning the business from Stanley Mason who apprenticed him. The tea shop houses a restaurant which serves teas, of course, along with soups and salads and sandwiches which are named after all the Harneys. The Brigitte—appropriately named and alluring—is a French baguette with French butter and a choice of ham or prosciutto. Most sandwiches were priced at $7 and the tea service ranged from $4 to $6.50. On a hot day in July the iced chai was the most alluring. Harney and Sons Tea Lounge. 5723 Rt. 22, The Railroad Plaza. www.harney.com. (518) 789-2121. Open 7 days a week, Monday Saturday 10am to 5pm, Sundays from 11am to 4pm.

In the end we skipped the chai, however. After stopping into Sapersteins, an old-fashioned department store on Main Street, where I was struck by nostalgia for my childhood shopping experiences in Queens, my husband and I opted for Irving Farm Coffee House right across the street. It was very casual: we ordered sandwiches, soups and drinks at the counter, picked up a number and grabbed a seat. I would recommend the gazpacho, and all the homemade pastries were very tempting, but the list of coffees could rival Starbucks any day. And the specialty drinks! How about Hazelnut Cappuccino or Caramel Apple Cider? We might have to return in the fall to sample and pick up some pumpkins at Silamar Farms. Irving Farm also roasts, sells and ships its own coffees. Irving Farm Coffee House. 44 Main Street. www.IrvingFarm.com. Open 6am to 6pm except weekends, when they open later and also close later.

We did not get a chance to check out Manna Dew Cafe at 54 Main Street but would love to try the Tex Mex on Mondays or the live Jazz and Blues on Friday night at 10pm. Unlike Harney and Sons and Irving Farms, Manna Dew is a destination for dinner, featuring natural organic ingredients and an eclectic menu with a good selection of wines. Manna Dew. 54 Main Street. Closed on Tuesdays. Open for dinner all other days from 5:30 9:30pm (except until 10pm Friday and Saturday, and from 5pm on Sunday). Desserts & cold plates served till past midnight. 518-789-3570.

The Manna Dew or Martha's at Simmons Way would be good destinations before or after a movie in Millerton. A moviehouse in a small town? Carol and Robert Sadlon were weekenders 30 years ago but both loved movies and realized that the Millerton theatre was closed and available for sale. They bought it and it was profitable from day one. Residents where upset when the Sadlons returned to the city after that first summer, so they decided to open the theatre year around showing second run commercial films. Today they have three screens and show a lot of first run movies as well. On the second floor they feature art and foreign films as well as Indies. The second floor also houses the art gallery and café, opened since 1980, with local photography, paintings and sculpture.

With the help of grants and townscape, the Sadlons have been instrumental in restoring the Clock Tower as well as other old buildings in Millerton, including Simmons Way, now operating as an Inn and housing the restaurant Martha's. Both Sadlons emphasized the tremendous help they'd received from the town and village governments that has also pushed for restoration and investment in the Victorian buildings. David Sherman, Town Supervisor, is glad that the Clock Tower is working and illuminated. When he hears it striking each hour, it's a reminder of how vibrant this community has become.

Carol Sadlon was excited too about the present village of Millerton and what is to come: the rail trail is expanding and when it is complete will include 47 miles of paved trail. Presently the bike trail is home to Bike NY and of course to all of us who like to bike, walk and rollerblade. The Sadlons also spoke about the Farmers' Market, open from May until October on Saturdays from 10am to 2pm. What strikes them about the village's success is that Millerton is eclectic, diverse, and unique —a real community and not just an upscale weekend spot. The village pulls in local families, farmers along with the weekenders, tourists and of course students and parents from the prep schools in Connecticut. In October the art gallery will be hosting ArtEast, tours of local artists' studios. The Moviehouse. 48 Main Street. Closed on Tuesdays. 518-789-3408. www.themoviehouse.net.

Of course one could always pack a picnic to head out to Rudd Pond, north of the village, to swim, boat or to hunt in season. Historical buildings, good food, outdoorsy pleasures—who wants to leave Millerton? In case you do, the Wassaic train station on the Metro North line is only ten miles away and you can be in New York City, in two hours.