O’Leary’s
by Barbara Jean Briskey

It’s been a curious process, these drive-by assessments of what’s been brewing at the old Tap House that sits smack between Red Hook and Rhinebeck on Route 9. The cedar shingles have been painted lighter, the windows updated. My memories of that building carry me many years back to when I took my young children there to eat a simple dinner and color on the paper tablecloths in the dark booths. Sometimes in winter I would meet friends for a drink and sit by the fireplace in the dim, smoky, sometimes raucous bar room.

A step inside the new O’Leary’s is a burst of fresh air. The inside is completely remodeled, with two new open spaces and a back room with recessed lighting, mahogany-colored tables and beautiful cream-colored walls. Art ranging from the rowdy to the simply modern adorns the walls. The flag artist and creator of the large abstract expressions in the main dining area is chef and co-owner, Mark O’Leary. The painter of the more Rothko and O’Keeffe-esque art is the bartender, Seth.

It’s clear that Mark & Carol O’Leary have put their heart and soul into creating this somewhat upscale restaurant. When complimented on a large carved wooden breakfront, Carol reported that it was from their living room, common in her home state of Hawaii. She and Mark moved to this area to attend the Culinary Institute in the early 90s.

We were delighted to see a spontaneous tango demonstration on the open floor by the bar. Drink offerings are so extensive it was hard to make a choice. The varied wine list includes several champagne and sparkling wines that make this an ideal place to toast an event. We tried the mojito—excellent and not too sweet. The lemon martini was fresh and tasty, though not puckery enough to be perfect. A cold generous glass of Pinot Grigio was $7.

The menu is an eclectic mix, with several seafood appetizers like steamed clams in white wine, garlic and tomato broth or steamed mussels. The mussels were good, with a savory rich pomodoro sauce that I wanted to finish after the mussels were gone. We also sampled Peking duck rolls with plum sauce, which were served over a large bed of julienned cucumbers and garnished with a large handful of watercress—a lovely mixture of tastes and textures.

There are more seafood entrees than most local restaurants, including scallops & jumbo shrimp, salmon with dill sauce, and the market fish of the day. For landlubbers, the menu offers filet mignon, prime New York steak, lamb chops, chicken, and pasta putana. Strictly vegetarian selections are limited to a classic Caesar and a frisée salad, plus sides. We tried the parmesan-crusted chicken, which was tasty and served with perfect mashed potatoes.

Carol reports that they designed the new restaurant to feel open, and hope to eventually accommodate events like wedding receptions. The improved, smoke-free fireplace will be roaring in the winter. I have a feeling I will be seeing some regular customers the next time I eat there.