Not Just for Pickles
by Cait Johnson

Much as we adore the Hudson Valley, the season euphemistically termed “early spring” can get pretty old around here: we’re oh-so-ready for a vernal siren song, and instead we get Old Man Winter muttering the same old story long after it’s lost its appeal. Back in the day, we could make a timely getaway to someplace warm and sunny, but for many of us that’s become the impossible dream. Still, although we may be sick of dirty snow and gray vistas, I’m here to tell you about a great package deal that offers a true breath of spring. Yes folks, for one low, low price you get feathery greenery on which to feast your winter-weary eyes, benefits for both health and palate, and a reminder of the yearly miracle that never disappoints.

What’s the deal? Go buy yourself a cheap packet of seeds and start growing some DILL—the hardy herb that’s often the first thing gardeners put in the ground. (In fact, many sources advise planting it a week or two before the last hard frost.) Gardening is cheering to the soul, since it demonstrates the improbable transformation of dead seed to lush plant—and dill is so easy to grow that even those of us with a noticeable lack of gardening skill can’t help but reap an abundant harvest. With a nod to Dr. Seuss, you can grow it in a lot, or you can grow it in a pot. You can grow it here or there—you can grow it anywhere.

Besides the cold-weather-planting advantage, why dill? First of all, its sweet, tangy taste is uplifting, just like spring. And both the leaves and seeds have a venerable history of medicinal and even magical uses. Dill is one of the earliest known sleep aids, mentioned by the ancient Greeks. (In fact, the herb’s name comes from the Old Norse dilla meaning “to lull.”) Those Greek and Norse people must have been onto something: dill is still added to sleep pillows to calm restless kids and to help frazzled adults get their beauty rest. Folks in the Middle Ages used dill to ward off witches (which conjures Monty-Pythonesque images of nervous villagers waving pickles at the local Wise One), and it was infused in wine to make a love potion that must have tasted rather unusual, to say the least. Today, dill is an effective soother of colicky infant tummies, the seeds are chewed to freshen breath, and it’s sometimes mixed with yogurt to ease digestive discomfort. Dill contains anti-carcinogenic compounds (monoterpenes and flavonoids, in case you want to know) and its volatile oils can wipe out microbes of many ilks. In fact, after reading up on all the health benefits of dill, I was ready to start sleeping with it, bathing in it, and adding it to every meal.

Aside from its use as a love potion, though, most of us prize dill for its distinctive flavor, a welcome addition to recipes from borscht to boiled potatoes, salmon to salads to stroganoff—and much, much more. So here is a dilly of a dish, from my friend Diana. Substantial enough to be comforting on a chilly evening, it’s still bursting with the flavors of spring.

Salmon and Leek Pot Pie with Fresh Dill

INGREDIENTS

• 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed
• 6 tbsp unsalted butter
• 2 cups well-washed leeks, white and pale green parts only, chopped
• 2 medium garlic cloves, minced
• 1 cup frozen peas
• 2 pounds salmon fillets, skinned and de-boned (you could substitute haddock or any mild firm-fleshed fish), chopped into 1/2-inch pieces
• salt and freshly-ground pepper, to taste
• 7 tbsp all-purpose flour
• 16 oz bottled clam juice
• 2 cups whole milk
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill leaves
• pinch each of ground nutmeg and cayenne pepper

Preheat oven to 400°F.

In a large skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add leeks and a little salt and cook about 6 minutes, or until softened, stirring occasionally. Add garlic, stirring, and cook about 30 seconds, until fragrant. Transfer leeks and garlic to a 9 x 13-inch shallow casserole or baking dish and sprinkle with peas.

Lightly salt and pepper the fish and set aside. Using the same skillet, melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat, add the flour, and cook for about a minute, stirring constantly. Whisk in the clam juice gradually, then add the milk, and simmer for about 1 minute or until sauce thickens. Remove skillet from heat and add lemon juice, dill, nutmeg, and cayenne. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add fish to the leeks and garlic in the casserole, then pour in the sauce, stirring well to combine.

Loosely place puff pastry on top, cutting away any excess. Bake in preheated oven for around 15 minutes, until pastry is golden brown and sauce is bubbly. Cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Serves 6 to 8.

Adapted from Cover and Bake: Casseroles, Pot Roasts, Skillet Dinners, and Slow-Cooker Favorites from the Editors of Cook’s Illustrated.