DA/BA
by Barbara Jean Briskey

One shimmering evening last summer, my husband and I decided to wander Hudson to celebrate our anniversary. We danced to rippin' reggae on the waterfront as the sun set over Athens, then ventured up Warren Street. Our quest for an anniversary-grade dining experience led us to DA/BA. There we were treated to sumptuous drinks, exquisitely prepared food and small surprises. There was no question we would return for special occasions—this time a Friday night Mother's Day celebration.

DA/BA's name is derived from the name of chef/owner Daniel Nilsson and that of his mother, Barbro, who helped finance her son's dream. Ola Svedman, executive chef, creates Nordic World fusion cuisine, conjuring light but savory sauces with artfully presented unique combinations of typical and exotic foods. The setting is warm and simple, with low lighting and lots of candles, including sidewalk lamplight.

This time 'round, our family lingered over drinks—pear margarita (luscious with fresh puréed pears), caipirinha (a sweet and sour libation made with lime juice and a rum-like Brazilian liquor called cachaça), and the night's special, blending kumquats and passion fruit into a taste sensation. The bar also offers extensive wine, beer, and bubbly selections.

For appetizers, we chose slivers of saffron-coated dried warm pear and huge blackberries with a mousse-like foie gras served with tasty orange sauce. Lobster bisque was a delicate creamy broth served with a large seared scallop and lightly spiced squash shavings. Before the main course, we were served an amuse bouche (a small delight the chef prepares for all diners) of hot consummé in large test tubes. Nice touch! For the main course, I cherished every bite of the rack of lamb with its tart, savory cherry sauce. My husband enjoyed the wild boar special, accompanied by DA/BA's luscious risotto. (My son, a less adventuresome eater, ordered a $7.50 BLT from the bar menu and proclaimed it good.)

And dessert? Well, lets just say that, from chocolate indulgences to lemon-fennel and peach-lychee sorbets and vanilla ice cream, we happily finished it all. My daughter, a fine food lover, proclaimed this the best meal she had eaten in memory.

DA/BA is open from 6pm every night except Sunday. Portions are not designed for "all you can eat buffet" lovers. Salads and risotto (fish too) for vegetarians. Check out www.dabahudson.com for menu and prices.