A Deli & A Tapas Bar
by Mary Leonard

J & J's
There's no more important intersection in Red Hook than that of Rts. 9 and 199, so it's certainly fortunate that the occupant of its northeast corner is no ordinary deli but J and J's Gourmet Deli, where everything is made from high quality, fresh ingredients. Jen Stokes, co-owner with her husband Joe, is a graduate of the CIA, interned at the St. Andrews Café, and always had a dream to open her own place. Dreamers and pragmatists are good for any business but especially for the restaurant business. The Deli is also the site for Jen's catering business, something she was juggling with a full time job before buying the Deli five years ago.

The Deli serves breakfast and lunch and is open every day of the week. Sunday is a recent addition and a very successful one. Despite the economic downturn, all is going well at J and J's. Gloom and doom have not hit this corner. Jen said that their clients are a mix of locals, Bard students, musicians, artists and tourists to the Hudson Valley. People may not be going out for the expensive dinner, but lunch and breakfast seem to be popular. Also, the quality and the price range keep customers coming back in the door. Says Jen: "Everything is made from scratch and all the recipes are my own." The open and friendly atmosphere keep them coming in too. As I looked around, I liked the openness and the light. The Deli is homey and open, warm and efficient. Of course regulars do hang out and use the wireless service, which is just fine with Jen, but others stop in quickly on the way home from work to get some takeout, like a vegetable torte to go. The takeout prepared foods range from $6.99 to $8.99.

The regular menu? Well how about breakfast. Most selections are in the three dollar range and offer a creative twist. A veggie omelet folded over dill havarti cheese? Huevos Rancheros?

Recently, at lunch, I went for the Mediterranean hummus and veggies on multigrain ciabatta. Delicious—and I am very particular about hummus since I spend months each year in the Middle East. The gourmet Deli also has a grill and I do want to try the burger with horseradish cream, lettuce, tomatoes and red onion. According to Jen, the Hudson Valley chicken BLT is a local favorite at $6.99. And of course J and J makes their own salads, Paninis and soups.

What keeps Jen going? She has fulfilled her dream, the business is a success and she doesn't to have to work nights, which most do in the restaurant business. She has just hired a kitchen manager so she can take a day off. So congratulations to Jen and Joe on a successful business venture on an important slice, or should I say corner, of the Red Hook landscape.

One East Market Street, Red Hook, (845) 758-9030, jandjgourmet.com

Sabroso
Sabroso is behind the Upstate and near the health food store in Rhinbeck. It was a cold night when I visited, and the warmth from the gold walls and the many votives made me feel exhilarated and yet relaxed. The long room is filled with tables and banquettes and the wrought iron chandeliers give the restaurant a Spanish majesty. In good weather customers can dine on the patio.

The two co-owners, Marcia Miller and Erica Mahlkuch, have lots of ideas, from featuring more classic tapas dishes to hosting a sherry night to educate their customers about the wonderful marriage of tapas and sherries. I have always wondered why American tapas places only serve small glasses of sherry, which makes me feel as if I'm visiting Aunt Rose in Flushing.

On my visit I ordered the special, 4 tapas for $14.95. One was a generous portion of shrimp and chorizo in a paprika and sherry sauce, and the second was an arepe—a corn griddlecake over Cuban shredded beef. The third was beef pinchitos on skewers with a chimichurri sauce and the last, soft Manchego and spinach croquettes fried to a crisp. The presentation and the contrast of tastes and textures were superb, and instead of a sherry I washed it down with a good glass of Trumpeter Malbec from Argentina.

Marcia and Erica are exciting chefs and understand the nature of Latino food that has been influenced by many cultures because of colonialism (suddenly a positive effect of colonialism!) I wish I had tried Mango Tres Leches and the Cuban Coffee, but I will be back this summer, especially whenever they hold another of their table talks or culinary demonstrations!

22 Garden Street, Rhinebeck, (845) 876-8688, sabrosorestaurant.com