The Joys of Georgian Cooking: Eating Well for Less
by Cait Johnson

Until I met Lara, who hails from the Republic of Georgia, I used to think that Georgian cooking was all about overcooked cabbage and boiled potatoes, along with maybe (and here I would suppress a delicate shudder) a little pickled fish. Well, I was really, really wrong. Georgia's proximity to the Black Sea means that many areas of the region are considered humid subtropical: the mild, balmy climate and fertile soil yield an abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as world-famous wines (Lara's father was a vintner) and the cuisine is nearly Mediterranean in terms of both flavor and health benefits. I mean, who knew that a country so close to Russia would rely on foods like garlic, tomatoes, fresh herbs, and eggplant?

The first time I tasted Lara's cooking, I was hooked: she made khatchapuri (don't even try to pronounce it), a Georgian-style pizza with three cheeses that melted in my mouth. Then there was the pchale—spinach with scallions, garlic, cilantro, and ground walnuts. My then-13-year-old son came along for that visit and after he had eyed the spinach a tad dubiously, he bravely took a bite. To my amazement, he closed his eyes in bliss, then opened them, fixed me with a challenging stare, and asked, "So, the reason you don't cook like this is... what, exactly?" Another convert to Georgian cooking—and this was a spinach dish he was talking about, mind you.

Lara explains that Georgians are a thrifty people, so their foods are simple and inexpensive, but the uniquely Georgian combinations of fresh herbs, nuts (so good for us, with their heart-healthy fats) and fresh produce make it delicious. And, like most Georgians, Lara loves to use her hands when she cooks. "When I am chopping the walnuts for pchale, I have to feel that they are right, no electric chopper. Besides, I love it!" Now that we're all watching our nickels and dimes, the thought of cooking without hiking up the electric bill is an attractive one.

And it's not just the thought of lower electric bills that appeals. These days, many of us don't have the money to dine out as often as we'd like, and we can't afford expensive, exotic ingredients. That doesn't mean, though, that we've lost our craving for interesting—and comforting—foods that are simple and easy to make. "Everybody who taste my food wants to know how to make it themselves, is so good," she tells me. "And is all made with fresh Farmer's Market foods. Is good for you too."

Lara is right about the popularity of her signature Georgian foods. Not that long ago, she did all the cooking for her sister's wedding reception and the results were works of art, some dishes studded with gemlike pomegranate seeds, others wreathed with edible greens. The beautiful presentation comes naturally to her, since she is an artist as well as a talented cook, but Lara is best known as a healer, and I think some of her special healing energy finds its way into the foods she makes. Even without her special magic, though, Georgian foods are outstanding and the crowd at the reception just couldn't get enough: little savory meatballs, herb-spiked eggs, tender greens-stuffed dumplings, garlicky sauces, cakes spilling over with juicy strawberries—it was all delicious.

Recent polls have shown an increase in the popularity of cooking classes in direct proportion to the decrease in meals eaten out. It occurred to Lara that the time is right for her to share her authentic Georgian recipes, so, starting on June 20, she will be conducting a monthly Georgian Cooking class in Rhinebeck—see the ad in the Summmer 2009 directory and call Cait at 845-876-0449 for information.

Lara's Georgian Potato Salad with Fresh Vegetables

This mouth-watering variation on the timeless picnic classic is bursting with flavor as well as healthful vitamins and minerals. "Is wonderful combination of things, beet and carrot and cucumber along with potato," Lara shares. "Pickle and fresh dill are so good, and also very good for you. And be sure to use lots of black pepper!"

This is a clever way to get small children to eat some colorful anti-oxidant-rich veggies. You can serve it as is, or on a bed of fresh greens, or—if you're looking for a pretty dish to make for a picnic or party—you could use the mixture to stuff fresh bell peppers.

INGREDIENTS

4 or 5 red potatoes, boiled, cubed, and cooled

1 large carrot, grated

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cubed

1 large beet, boiled, skinned, and cubed

2 scallions, white and green parts, chopped

1 medium Kosher dill pickle

Olive oil, to taste

Freshly-ground black pepper, to taste

Sea salt, to taste

1/2 cup (or less) fresh dill, chopped

DIRECTIONS

In a large mixing bowl, combine, potatoes, carrot, cucumber, beet, scallions, and pickle. Add olive oil gradually, stirring, until salad reaches desired moistness. Add sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste and stir again. Sprinkle salad with chopped fresh dill, cover, and chill for at least 30 minutes. Serve cold. Serves 4 to 6.