Mexican in Rhinebeck... and a Revitalized Dog
by Carol Lee

Gaby’s Café
You can find Gaby’s Café, located in a hidden parking lot behind Upstate Films in Rhinebeck, by following the Mexican music piped into the lot. Happily, the music is not intrusive once inside the restaurant. What is boldly apparent, however, is the ambience playing out in broad swaths of deep colors, some primary, some secondary and all harmonizing in a most unlikely accord. Booths line the opposite wall, lime green, behind orange arches festooned with beige and orange tiles, while the tablecloths are marine blue. The back wall is one huge, dazzling pink-orange leaf. What can I say? This is a happy place. It works!

Gaby’s originated in Ellenville, but one of the owners, Genaro, has always taken his young children to the Dutchess County Fair and each year they have clamored to live here. So, now he operates the original Gaby’s, in Ellenville, along with this new one, together with his brother, Delfino and their wives, Maria and Alicia.

I sat one chilly spring afternoon with a friend by a window to catch the sun’s warmth after hoofing around Rhinebeck in the Arctic air. Other diners sat in the booths and at the tables. After our bones thawed and we’d taken in our festive surroundings, we studied the menu, while devouring bowl after bowl of delicious homemade salsa with chips. We ordered a chicken enchilada and a burrito supremo with flank steak, black beans, sour cream, red and green sauces.

A fajita arrived at a neighboring table and I was momentarily sorry I hadn’t ordered one. In keeping with the showy nature of the place, the guacamole is prepared fresh with a flourish at tableside in a four-legged lava stone bowl. Our burrito and enchilada arrived, each the size of hero sandwiches and both chock full of meat, beans and rice, with some sour cream and guacamole rolled in. They both had zing—not so much a heat as a tangy flavor, and the flank steak tasted like well-seasoned barbecue! Halfway through, we opened up the wraps and ate only the filling inside, as they were really that big.

I came back a few weeks later on a Saturday night with another friend and the place was crowded at 7 pm, the air festive and energized. There’s a long bar in an adjoining room if you prefer to eat there, or alone. Prices range basically between $10 and $22, with a few exotic items as high as $35. Beside all the usual Mexican fare, there are burgers, wraps, eggplant parmesan, Greek salad, etc. A bit of Mexico in Rhinebeck.

Seven days, 10am–10pm. 6423 Montgomery St., Rhinebeck, 845-516-4363, gabyscafe.com

ZenDog Café
ZenDog has re-opened after a winter of renovation and re-invention, as owner D. J. Kadagian has paired up with Carol and Mark O’Leary, of O’Leary’s fame, both CIA-trained restaurateurs who oversee and train chefs at both restaurants.

So what’s changed? There are now two kitchens at ZenDog, one for cooking and one a prep kitchen with a grill. There’s also a whole new menu that includes Tartufo Pizza with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Oil ($14), appetizers such as Seared Tenderloin and Mushroom Gorgonzola Crostini ($12), which my friend raved about, and Mussels Marinara ($9), which we sent back because it was far too spicy for us. (We’re told, however, that people love the pepper spice.) I saw one woman entranced, eating her Giant Artichoke with Lemon, Butter and Parmesan Cheese ($9). N.J. Wheelock, a local woman whose unique art is for sale in the restaurant’s galleries, crowed that the “fried calamari was more tender than a Cape Cod clam!” Other selections include fresh salads piled high on the plates ($8 each), Prime NY Steak ($27), Salmon Arrabiata ($21), and Grilled Scallops, Shrimp and Calamari on Sauteed Kale, $22, my new fave.

This is a fun place with regulars returning week after week for the wonderful jazz performances Wednesday and Friday nights. Opening night Jazz was provided by Rebecca Coupe Franks quartet: lively, melodic and a delight to experience. And now the patio is open for dining too. Soooo glad the Dog is back! Good Dog. Sit. Stay.

Tue 5–10:30 pm, Wed–Sun 10:30am–closing; closed Monday. 6367 Mill Street, Rhinebeck, zendogcafe.com.